Château Léoville Barton

Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2017 Léoville Barton charges out of the gate with bold notions of baked plums, crème de cassis and blueberry preserves plus wafts of pencil shavings, fragrant earth and cedar chest. Medium to full-bodied, the palate delivers mouth-coating black fruit preserves with compelling herbal sparks and a firm, grainy texture, finishing long and lively.

Tasted blind. Deep ruby. Dark-fruited and brooding on the nose – this has clear potential. The palate is very muscular, with a solid framework on which to build the fruit. Notes of cassis and spice are in harmony, showing the precision of the winemaking here. Rich and spicy but well managed. This is chiselled and very fine. Long and driven on the finish.

The purity of cabernet sauvignon really comes through here with currants, blackberries and stones. Perfumed, too. Medium to full body. Very fine, polished tannins and a fresh, fruity finish. This shows a compact palate with a polished, creamy finish. Much higher percentage of cabernet than is usual. Drink after 2023.